Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Balenciaga Spring 2009
Paris: At Balenciaga, Light Play
By Cathy Horyn
A super-thoughtful and technically interesting Balenciaga show this morning from Nicolas Ghesquière: very light, luminous and leaning again toward the futuristic. He opened with beige-pink jersey stretched and gathered over a kind of heart-shaped form on the bodices of mini dresses, followed by a more complex use of second-skin tops and matching tights for under many of the looks. Slim pants and tunic tops — in pink shades of beige and light gray — had quilting, almost like a moto-cross detail but more polished and delicate like couture.
Metallic fabrics that looked like leather were in fact silk, and silver and gold finale dresses — some with fringe and the beige-pink leotard idea — were made of tiny pieces of ribbon. The tights pulled over the shoes, with apparently an opening for the sole. Very interesting effect: it blanked out the shoes, or the talk of shoes. Ghesquière said the show was about absorbing and reflecting light. It was certainly absorbing and, at the same time, difficult to describe. By the way, he had a passage of male models in the show, in stiff dark suits without lapels and flicker of gold at the nearly closed neckline.
BALENCIAGA SS 09: CONSISTENCY OF LINE WITH COMPLEXITY
Submitted by Wayne
A thousand opinions will bubble up around Balenciaga SS09. Whether you found it good or bad it retained all the codes that makes Ghesquiere's Balenciaga such a compelling proposal. At the precise time he could have chosen to feed the machine the familiar, Ghesquiere distorted the familiar into something uncomfortable. Which is great. The cake and the cake eaten too. The collection looked like a past Balenciaga collection thrown up against a fun house mirror, rippling and warping before your very eyes. The torqued fabric, an idea reflected in the extended gloves and the stockings over the shoes...a familiar styling trick yes, (see mid 90's Margiela) ...the shimmering palette the odd conjunction of textures...it was a intelligent way to mirror your expected themes.As for the menswear...I'd get into it, literally because it is so cult. "Not for everybody"...from a brand the scale of Balenciaga can seem like such an unfriendly position to take but you have to admire the honesty of that.
Natasha Poly
Shannan Click
Kasia Struss
Iselin Steiro
Laragh McCann
Monday, September 29, 2008
Rick Owens Spring 2009
Paris: Rock of Ages
By Cathy Horyn
Rick Owens was quite interesting: much more stripped down, nearly all in black and gray, with these flappy, floppy boots ....The key look was a kind of jumpsuit that suggested a tank dress with openings at the side and back. There were also black cotton jackets that were fitted and closed at the front with a knot of fabric.
Mariacarla Boscono
Kasia Struss
Kasia Struss
Mariacarla Boscono
Balmain Spring 2009
Paris: Rock of Ages
By Cathy Horyn
Balmain was this afternoon. Christophe Decarnin did Sgt. Pepper jackets with peaked shoulders (sort of like Margiela’s) with ripped, acid-washed jeans and sparkly high heels. Dresses made you think of early bondage Versace, mixed with a bit of Alaia. I liked the cut of the jackets — the way they fell at the front — and I suppose there is a certain similarity to McQueen, but Decarnin has a way of identifying all the most interesting bits in the fashion cosmos and putting them together at the right moment. A London retailer told me her store recently sold two of his party dresses, for about $14,000 each, online.
Natasha Poly
Mariacarla Boscono
Isabeli Fontana
Natasha Poly
Isabeli Fontana
Mariacarla Boscono
Natasha Poly