Thursday, May 22, 2008

Shannan Click - transformations

Shannan Click is a great model - she will work the hardest to make a picture great. Clearly, she loves fashion. Her hair has gone through many transformations. When she signed with Women, her hair was its natural blonde color. Her hair was dyed medium reddish brown for her first show season, spring 2005. Immediately Shannan was a star - she opened Luella Bartley & did the Prada show and campaign. Currently Shannan can be seen in the Dior Addict High Shine campaign & the May 2008 US Vogue, ph:Raymond Meier.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Calvin Klein Collection Resort 2009

Francisco Costa presented the Calvin Klein Collection for Resort 2009 on Monday, May 19 at 10:00 am at the Calvin Klen show space (205 West 39th street). Camilla Nickerson styled this show, and the fall 2008 collection. Kasia Struss & Vlada were in the show.

Vlada - Chanel Cruise 2009 behind the scenes

Vlada visited an alligator farm in Miami last week, while in town for the Chanel Cruise 2009 show.

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Beauty: Veruschka

I might even show you my photograph album. You might even see a face in it which might remind you of your own, of what you once were. You might see faces of others, in shadow, or cheeks of others, turning, or jaws, or backs of necks, or eyes, dark under hats, which might remind you of others, whom you once knew, whom you thought long dead, but from whom you will still receive a sidelong glance.
Harold Pinter, No Man's Land, 1975

Beauty - Polly Allen Mellen

Francesco Scavullo photographed & interviewed stylist Polly Mellen for his book Scavullo Women (1985). As a protégé of the charismatic Diana Vreeland, Mellen became a sittings editor first at Harper’s Bazaar, then at American Vogue, collaborating with such legendary photographers as Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, and Irving Penn, and eventually continuing her career at Allure magazine. "She was and still is the most creative sittings editor I ever worked with," says Richard Avedon.

on Fashion:
"Fashion is what we're seen in, and it is the way we present ourselves. And thats important. I care deeply about fashion, but I must tell you the way I care. I care about fashion for the person who is wearing it. I care that that person knows what she can wear. How she should look. Because I honestly think that I can look at any woman and say, 'Gee if she did it this way, she'd look so terrific.' I never think, Is she beautiful looking?"
on Beauty:
" Beautiful-looking is a girl, who has been born beautiful. Brooke Shields is a beauty. Carole Lombard was my ideal, a woman with wit, glamour, style......"
on Style:
"Style can be a person who is not beautiful-looking. Style is a person who dares, who has the confidence of knowing what is right for her. I've said a lot of times that you should try something out something first before you take it out. But I don't do that always. Sometimes I just put on my purple leather pumps, with the bright green cocardes on the toes, and go out anyway."

Monday, May 19, 2008


Maciek Kobielski photographed Viktoriya on March 23, 2008 at Lili Abir Regen's apartment on 23rd Street for the June 2008 Numero Tokyo. Stylist Leslie Lessin accessorized her with Bijules gold nail ring (available at Cry Wolf , 212.995.9653 111 St. Marks Place, Between 1st and Ave A).
Laura in the Women art department has been rocking her gold ring all summer. The best thing to wear with that ring is a David Lee Nagel t-shirt from artist Thom Lessner. Pay respect to both David Lee Roth and artist Patrick Nagel!

Friday, May 16, 2008

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Jennifer Starr Interview

You may think you know Jennifer Starr from the hit Bravo show “Make Me a Supermodel”. Jennifer is the original independent Casting Director – world renowned photographers and designers hire her for her opinion and point of view. In her words: “I have the best job anyone could have – I have a license to go up to anyone I find interesting – and I do”. Jennifer has collaborated with photographers such as Bruce Weber, Richard Avedon, Steven Meisel, Mario Testino, Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Terry Richardson and Steven Klein. She has cast campaigns for icons such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Gap and Gucci.

Q: Where are you from?

A: New York City – but at 14 my family moved to Miami which I really didn't mind because I loved sports and the outdoors. In Manhattan we had a 40 minute gym class each day where we were in a small school gymnasium. If we were lucky we got to go over to central park and kick a ball around. At my school in Coconut Grove, Miami, I was on the swim team, volleyball team and basketball team. On weekends I was at the beach. Miami was completely different then than it is now. Coconut Grove and South Beach are practically unrecognizable.

Q: How did you get into this business?

A: Through Bruce Weber’s sister Barbara DeWitt. Bruce was shooting The Calvin Klein Obsession and Jeans campaign and she was the producer. I was 17 and she asked me to scout locations for the shoots. There were about 40 models, including Christy Turlington, and we needed private homes where Bruce would be comfortable shooting nudes in natural light. I lived in a high-rise but many of my friends had beautiful homes that I knew would work perfectly. Once the shoot began, Bruce asked me to stay on as a production assistant – I remember one of my first responsibilities included taking the models to the beach to get a healthy tan, and making sure they didn’t get sunburned. I decided I couldn't really tell my friends what I was doing (LOL). Who would believe it? After working for Bruce for a few months I went to the University of Wisconsin-Madison, where I received a B.A. in Sociology, and studied Political Science at Oxford. Right before graduation, Bruce and his partner Nan asked me to come back to New York and work for them full time. Somewhere along the line my primary job became casting the models. I think I just really enjoyed that part of the job more then anything else and I guess was innately good at it. Bruce would send me all over the world to find fresh new faces.

Q: Tell me about working with Bruce-

A: Bruce wanted to know everything about the people he would shoot – where they were from, what sports they played at school. He was curious about who they were as individuals. For many Abercrombie & Fitch and Versace campaigns I would travel ahead to the shoot location and cast locals. This would help guarantee us new faces that hadn’t been overexposed. Using local people as models would bring spontaneity to the shoot – really great energy. Bruce really captures who a person is in his photographs. I refer to my time there as BW school. It was a real education into music, film, fashion, and art. Bruce would say we are going to do a Pasolini story and I would then go and watch every Pasolini film made. He would make cinematic references all the time. I made the best of friends over those four years. With Bruce and Nan and the dogs at the helm, it was very much a family.

Q: How did you start your business?

A: When I began there were no independent casting directors. There were no rules. No fee structures. There was no program or structured course of action to follow to become a casting director…like there is for lawyers, bankers or doctors. Bruce taught me how to do street casting – to find real beauty that would be accepted in a commercial ad campaign. He used to say- when you leave here and you’re a big casting director... he planted the seed. Bruce was super supportive when I left and even recommended me to Calvin. Then, my first phone call on my own was from Richard Avedon. Things just kind of snow balled after that. I was incredibly blessed.

Q: What was it like working with Richard Avedon?

A: He was larger than life. I admired him and his work even before I entered this business. He had so much energy. I kept calling him Mr. Avedon and he kept saying- please call me Dick. I said I just couldn't do that. At our first meeting he told me that he wanted me to travel around the world - that I should pick twelve different countries and find the most beautiful women in each country for the next Pirelli Calendar called Women of the World. After he said this I started looking around the room. He said "what are you looking for"? I said that I am looking for the man to tell me that I am on candid camera because these things don't happen to me. He said he loved me and I had the job.

Q: I loved those old D&G ads.

A: I loved casting those D&G campaigns for Steven Meisel. We used real people. I presented Steven with an extensive biography on each model because that's what Bruce liked. Steven was like- Jen- I'm not writing a book on these people- it's a portrait! He’s so funny! I cast real families and couples- many of them same sex couples, and they were shot in very normal, very casual, and very beautiful situations. I think it was the first time gay couples were portrayed in a very affectionate, loving and tasteful way. These ads had a big impact on the way homosexuality was perceived and I was so proud to have been a part of them.

Q: How has modeling changed in the last 5 years?

A: Celebrities have become the new supermodels.

Q: Where do you see the modeling industry changing in the next 5 years?

A: Well, I would say that street casting is still going to be important and I feel that reality television is going to affect the fashion industry as well.

Q: What do you look for in a model?

A: Someone who is comfortable in their own skin. A relaxed body attitude, not studied body language. Not “super-modely”. The ability to really look with their eyes and connect with the camera. I am always searching for unique and different types of beauty. I love people who are passionate about something and that passion comes through in a picture. And, quite often I am drawn to people with great personal style.

Monday, May 12, 2008

Toni Garrn

Mario Testino photographed Toni Garrn for the new V Magazine on March 4th in Paris.

Friday, May 9, 2008

Eva Mendes photographed by Steven Meisel

Steven Meisel photographed Eva Mendes for the May 2008 Italian Vogue (Stylist: Andrew Richardson, Makeup: Pat McGrath, Hair: Guido, Set Design: Mary Howard).
This editorial has utterly inspired me.

Confession: I have never seen an Eva Mendes film before. I was disappointed to hear that Calvin Klein chose Eva to be the face of its new fragrance & Underwear line. Just another celebrity stealing a job from a model. However this story shows what a great model Eva is.

Observe how Eva tells a story with her body language - relaxed left hand, right toe extended, left toe in her mouth, eyes focused directly at the camera, eyebrows arched. She is frankly aware of her carnal power, and not at all afraid of the male gaze. Mary Howard's set completes the story: this is a woman who has en extensive library - she is sexual and literary. The varied height of the books suggest a women who gets a lot of pleasure from art and from literature. The sunlight reflected from her spotless glass table & vase reveal that she wears her lingerie in the day time - is she wearing it for herself, or for a lover? The artificial flowers in the vase reveal that although she is a woman of leisure, gardening is not one of her passions. Andrew Richardson's chiffon knickers give a dowdy, high waisted silhouette, but their sheerness reveal her light panties and latent naughtiness. The blue satin high heeled open toed mules deliberately reveal that her coral manicure matches her coral pedicure. Clearly she is into shrimping.

Eva is taking advantage of the props at her disposal. Her right hand gracefully holds her cigarette. She is aware of the dangers of smoking but doesn't care. Sheer Fendi kimono open, breasts exposed, arms & legs wide open, in a spread eagled position on a wooden bench inside of a lawn chair frame. Her body is where the fabric covering would be. This position seems to invite the viewer, who has become a voyeur, to sit on her. However, her confrontational expression & defiance betray her prone body language - there is no doubt that Eva is in control. Guido's wig reminds me of the volume of this girl sitting on her bed with her shirt off with the sheen , darkness and control of this young Brooklyn family going on a Sunday outing. Again, the daylight reminds you that she is not a creature of the night, she pursues her succor in the daytime.

Here Eva reminds me of one of my favorite models, Shana. Steven Meisel photographed Shana for three consecutive Italian Vogue covers, several Italian Vogue editorials and the Alberta Ferretti campaign. Shana reminded me of the actress Raquel Welch. All three women are excellent models who were comfortable performing for the camera. Like Eva, Shana modeled for a Calvin Klein fragrance campaign, Escape. Chris Von Wangenheim photographed Raquel Welch for the cover of Playboy.

This shot on the right is my favorite of the entire series. Ths shadows dancing across Eva's torso are gorgeous. The sunlight caresses her left eyelid & cheekbone. the joy Eva feels for finally connecting with her someone to touch is palpable. The stockinged feet caressing her breasts may or may not be her lover. Either way, it is obvious that she loves being touched.

The nudity in the story shocked me. Steven Meisel rarely photographs nudes. His most famous series of nudes was Madonna's Sex book. the book was styled by Paul Cavaco, who was assisted by Andrew Richardson at the time. Besides styling, Andrew is also the editor-in-chief of Richardson Magazine. Fabien Baron shot the Sex sessions on video, including super 8 mm. Baron used the footage for the video for the song "Erotica", which he directed. Fabien Baron photographed Toni Garrn for the spring 2008 Calvin Klein Collection campaign.

This story rocked my world. The first thing I did before work was head to the store to buy Pat McGrath's Cover Girl Line Exact liquid Eyeliner. In this video Pat teaches how to apply the Cover Girl Line Exact liquid Eyeliner she used at the fall '07 Louis Vuitton show. That is the purpose of great fashion photography - to entertain, to provoke, and to inspire the customer to buy something : an eyeliner, a shoe, a bra, a pair of stockings, or a fragrance.

Thursday, May 8, 2008

Heather Marks

Heather Marks is a real beauty. Yesterday I took polaroids of her in the morning - the room we were in faces south, and the sun was still in the East. The light is better in the afternoon, when the sun is setting in the west and comes in at a golden angle. The flash was creating a strange halo - so I taped over it to trick it. The polaroid came out way too dark - But I still love it. The darkness emphasizes the chic-ness of Heather - the length of her neck, the symmetry of her head, the lankiness of her arms. The silhouette & matte texture of the polaroid reminded me of a Mats Gustafson illustration. Heather performs for the camera, is aware of her posture, and does her best to make the picture look great. Watch her at work, and learn how a picture can go from good to great:

Tuesday, May 6, 2008


It is currently 74°F (23°C) and sunny in New York. Louise Pedersen , her husband Arthur and daughter Maya soaked up the sun on the roof at Women today.


It is currently 75°F (24°C) and mostly sunny in New York.

Radical simply means "grasping things at the root."
- Angela Davis

Monday, May 5, 2008


Today is 55°F (13°C)Sunny in NY.

I arise in the morning torn between a desire to improve (or save) the world and a desire to enjoy (or savor) the world. This makes it hard to plan the day.
-E.B. White

Friday, May 2, 2008

Yves Saint Laurent

Kasia Struss was photographed by Tim Richardson for Dazed & Confused Magazine (stylist: Karen Langley ) on March 7, 2008 at Pier 59 Studios. The editorial is a Yves Saint Laurent special, celebrating Stefano Pilati's contribution to the house of Saint Laurent. A video of the shoot can be seen here.

Jerry Schatzberg ,fashion photographer and filmmaker, documented the first Yves Saint Laurent show. He saw the backstage world of the models, photographers such as William Klein & Helmut Newton, and editors such as American Vogue's Jessica Daves & Harper's Bazaar's Diana Vreeland through his camera. The candid images from this series can be seen in the book Paris 1962: Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, Christian Dior, The Early Collections .

Lee Radziwill is a true fashion icon. She is a mother, sister, cousin, author, actress, model and inspiration. She lived through many public tragedies, yet always remained graceful, with a palpable sense of optimism. Lee had this to say about Yves Saint Laurent in 1962:

Q: You're looking for simple things?
A:That's right.

Q:People say Yves Saint Laurent isn't easy to wear.
A:It's very easy to wear. I should know my suit is Saint Laurent. It's easy
to wear.

Q:Could US stores copy it?
A:Yes, But I hope not.

Q:Why's that?
A:For myself! I don't want the same suit, same dress, same coat as everyone

Thursday, May 1, 2008

David Lynch

David Lynch will be on Long Island tommorow night at 7:15 pm at the Huntington Cinema Arts Centre to speak and take questions from the audience about his films, his creative process, his recent best-selling book Catching the Big Fish, and the David Lynch Foundation, which is bringing stress-reducing, creativity-enhancing Transcendental Meditation to school children.
General tickets are $75, VIP tickets are $95 & include a private reception with David Lynch, book signing,and a complimentary copy of Mr. Lynch's book Catching the Big Fish. Tickets can also be purchased at the box office during theater hours or by calling Brown Paper Tickets toll free at 1-800-838-3006.

David Lynch's Twin Peaks really captured the sinister beauty of the suburbs. Beneath a veneer of normalcy there were hidden problems like drug abuse, infidelity, murder & incest.